Zagreb – Croatia

Discover the natural beauty, culture and culinary secrets of a region where wine is a good excuse for getting around.

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One of the oldest countries in Europe possesses an immensely rich wine-growing culture dating back to the Roman Empire which still bears many of the influences of its neighbours, both in its wine festivals and its food preparation.

To begin this themed visit there is nothing better than the Croatian capital, Zagreb, known as the biggest open-air café in Europe. It combines a modern atmosphere with a carefully-preserved historical tradition, from its cathedral, in Kaptol, to the Dolac market, full of local specialities – don’t miss the organic plums and Kulen sausage – and Gornji Grad, the picturesque quarter where the streetlights are still lit by hand. Architecturally impressive and grandiose are the two outstanding symbols of Zagreb: the Gothic Church of St. Mark and the Mirogoj cemetery, housing the mausoleums of its most prominent local figures.

About 30 km east of the capital are the Plesivica Mountains, the first of three regions which form the most important wine areas of Central Croatia, mostly producing white wines. Here you will find specialities made from native grape varieties, the Portuguizac and Plavec Zuti table wines. If the wine works up an appetite, there is nothing better than lunch at the Ciban rural tourist hotel, where the house speciality is a delicious venison with plums.

Between Zagreb and the city of Varazdin, Sveti Ivan Zelina has been an important wine-producing area since the 13th century, much appreciated by kings and… Beethoven. Kraljevina, made from the most traditional grape, is a light table wine, appreciated by the locals and mixed with mineral water. Further north, Varazdin, commercial centre and university city, is the ideal place to spend an evening at the lively pavement cafés or visiting the fairy-tale castle.

The Skrlet da Moslavina is the perfect choice to complete our wine tour around Central Croatia. Prized for its exclusivity, it is a light, fresh wine, the perfect  accompaniment for ajngemahtes, the typical chicken soup of the region.

By Rúben Cardoso