Porto x100

on Oct 1, 2017 in Departure | No Comments

 

The city can’t be explained, it is something to be sensed and experienced. Rarely does it allow a fleeting but close relationship. Celebrating the northern sun, smiling on days when the cold combines sea, river and granite, or laughing in the rain that is tardy when departing, isn’t for everyone. The connection is sanguine, proud and incomprehensible. Forever unvanquished. This, and much more – flavours, ideas, nooks and crannies, visions, unique places – is described with the voices of ten women and men who know this place best.

 

10 WORKS OF ART /// by Suzanne Cotter

Porto is a place “of artists, whose art expresses the city in a significant way”. A city that delights via various “happy coincidences” for those pounding the pavement. The Director of the Serralves Museum provides us with an impressive itinerary.

Untitled sculpture /// Ângelo Sousa

Edifício Burgo \\\ Avenida da Boavista, 1837

Ângelo de Sousa, one of the “most emblematic artists of Porto” was commissioned to create this monumental red and green sculpture by the architect Souto de Moura. The piece “rivals the work of the great sculptors whose works we can see in public spaces and corporate plazas around the world.”

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Monument to the Heroes of the Peninsula War /// Alves de Sousa

Boavista Roundabout

Located in the middle of the Boavista Roundabout, it symbolises Portugal and the United Kingdom’s domination of Napoleon. The lion standing on the eagle. “For a city as elegantly genteel as Porto, the sculpture is striking in its expression of brute force.” The view will never be as “dramatic ´up close´ as from the terrace of the bar of Rem Koolhaas´s Casa da Musica. Unforgettable.”

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13 Laughing at Each Other /// Juan Muñoz

Jardim da Cordoaria

One of Porto’s characteristics is its ability to reveal itself gradually, in a “kind of ‘slow food’ experience”. “So, it is that the unexpected walker can stumble upon the enigmatic sculptures by the Catalan artist Juan Munoz. The total integration into the site of this captivating work by one of the late 20th century’s great European artists is, for me, another example of how easily the city lives with art – it is unexpected and inspiring.”

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The Arab Room

Palácio da Bolsa \\\ palaciodabolsa.com

Designed by Gonçalves de Sousa and built between 1862 and 1880, it’s a “breathtaking example” of Neo-Moorish style. Inspired by the Alhambra Palace in Granada, “the decorative scheme of the carved wood room, painted and upholstered with gold leaf, is the legacy of Islamic art and culture that seems to have been absorbed by much of Portugal’s visual aesthetics.”

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Flores Agrestes /// António Soares dos Reis

Museu Nacional de Soares dos Reis \\\ museusoaresdosreis.gov.pt

The “exquisitely carved” bust of a young woman from 1881 is in the sculptor’s museum, home to “the finest collections of 19th and early 20th century art in the city.” “One cannot stay unmoved by the sculpture’s delicate beauty” that “evokes the Romantic city of Porto in which literature and the arts flowered alongside period of energetic industriousness and intellectual confidence, the spirit of which continues to nourish the life of its inhabitants today.”

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Fons Vitae

Museu da Misericórdia do Porto \\\ mmipo.pt

The painting Fons Vitae (1515-17), attributed to the Flemish artist, Colijn de Coter, depicts the king of Portugal, D. Manuel I, kneeling at the foot of Christ crucified. “the quality and sophistication of the painting´s execution and iconography offer a small insight into the importance of the institution of the holy house [Misericórdia] dedicated to acts of charity and caring for the uncared. That the history of such a profound mission can be traced through its art is inspiring.”

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The Angel Messenger or Gabriel /// Irene Vilar

Foz do Douro

Paying a visit to Irene Vilar’s 2001 sculpture is de rigeur when Suzanne is on Passeio Alegre. “Porto is, historically, a city of merchants, but as you approach the Atlantic, it is also a city of fisherman and fishing communities. Seeing this beautiful, still figure of an angel looking out to sea evokes feelings of anticipation and also yearning that I imagine to be part of the existence of anyone attached to this life.”

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Wall Drawing #113 /// Sol LeWitt

Museu de Serralves \\\ serralves.pt

American artist LeWitt’s Wall Drawing # 113 (Arcs from Four Corners) was created in 2016 on one of the museum walls. “From its extremely simple premise of tracing a progressive sequence of arced lines emanating from the four corners of the wall, a complex pattern emerges in which line intersect, overlap and radiate an optical vibration that alters with shifts in light and position.”

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Serralves Museum of Contemporary Art /// Álvaro Siza Vieira

serralves.pt

Suzanne Cotter talks about the “privilege of spending days” at the Serralves Museum, which she says is one of the most beautiful in Europe. “Apart from the physical and intellectual pleasure that one has in being in and walking through the building and the relationship that Siza established between the interior space of ´culture´ and the exterior site of nature, there is a unique harmony with the furniture and fixtures.”

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Douro, Faina Fluvial /// Manoel de Oliveira

Suzanne Cotter’s final choice needs no trip to Porto, it’s a journey in itself. Douro, Fauna Fluvial (1931), Manoel de Oliveira’s first film, is one of the “one of the most emblematic works of art” about the city, “while offering a distant view of Porto in time, its eloquence and poetry, and its truth, cannot be denied.”

 

10 MUSIC SPOTS /// by Manuela Azevedo

The vocalist from Clã tells us where to go for the best live music (and more) in the city.

Casa da Música

Avenida da Boavista, 604-610 \\\ casadamusica.com

“An essential visit, this place offers a carefully chosen and varied musical programme, ranging from erudite and contemporary sounds to jazz, pop-rock, world music. It functions as an invaluably creative musical laboratory, producing the Remix Ensemble, the Symphonic and Baroque Orchestras, the choir, as well as the excellent work of its educational service.”

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Coliseu + Passos Manuel

Rua de Passos Manuel, 137 \\\ coliseu.pt \\\ facebook.com/passosmanuelporto

“The Coliseu is a mythical music venue that has hosted great names of Portuguese and international music. The building also has a more underground space: the Manuel Passos club. It still has the small film theatre of the same name and puts on small concerts, offering an alternative programme.”

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Rivoli

Rua do Bonjardim, 143 \\\ teatromunicipaldoporto.pt

“This municipal theatre boasts a high-quality and varied programme – music, theatre and dance – with a primarily contemporary focus. There is cinema, including Fantasporto, an iconic film festival.

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Hard Club

Praça do Infante D. Henrique \\\ facebook.com/hardclubporto

“Hard Club favours the heaviest type of rock, and heavy metal sounds suit the architectural features of the building, which used to be the Ferreira Borges Market. For those wanting dinner before the concert, there’s the N’O Mercado restaurant on the top floor.”

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Mercado Porto Belo

Praça Carlos Alberto

“One of my favourite places is the Praça Carlos Alberto area. At the weekend, there’s the Porto Belo Market, fairs where you can find second-hand (and new) vinyl, vintage stuff, homemade bread, jams, urban handicraft… Next door is Aduela, one of the city’s most popular wine bars.”

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Plano B

Rua de Cândido dos Reis, 30 \\\ planobporto.com

“Rua da Galeria de Paris, and everything around it, is one of the liveliest areas at night. Next door is Plano B, a club with parties, DJ nights and alternative music concerts, where you can dance until the early hours…”

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Primavera Sound

Parque da Cidade \\\ nosprimaverasound.com

“Parque da Cidade hosts one of the most important international music festivals: Primavera Sound. If you visit Porto at the end of May, beginning of June, take a look at the line-up. It’s worth checking out the excellent concerts in one of the most beautiful and comfortable venues I know.”

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Noites Ritual

Jardins do Palácio de Cristal  \\\ facebook.com/festivalnoitesritual

“Very close to the neighbourhood around Miguel Bombarda, Breiner and Rosário (which are full of galleries, shops and some good restaurants) is the famous Palácio de Cristal, which is a great place for a walk or just to relax. It’s also where the Noites Ritual music festival is held every summer, which features only Portuguese bands.”

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Sonoscopia

Rua da Prelada, 33 \\\ sonoscopia.pt

“A cultural association responsible for disseminating and supporting more experimental, niche music and performances. Sonoscopia also organises concerts, such as the Pôr-do-Sol nas Virtudes, a series of shows in partnership with Cooperativa Árvore, in its peaceful gardens.”

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Serralves em Festa

serralves.pt

“I highly recommend a visit to Serralves – to the excellent museum and marvellous gardens. I’ve seen amazing concerts at Serralves. Check out the programme and participate in the Serralves em Festa initiative, which happens every summer.”

 

10 WINE SPOTS /// by Sandra Tavares da Silva

One of the Douro’s most successful young winemakers tells us about great places to raise a glass.

Vinum

Rua do Agro, 141 \\\ vinumatgrahams.com

“Located in Graham’s cellars with a magnificent view, Vinum means a good experience and port selection.”

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Páteo das Flores

Rua das Flores, 135 \\\ facebook.com/pateodasfloreswinebar

“A lovely place, with a feel-good factor. This wine bar serves good petiscos (Portuguese version of tapas) prepared by chef Pedro Mourão, with a selection of over 100 wines, most from the Douro region.”

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Antiquum

Rua de Entre-Quintas, 220 \\\ antiqvvm.pt

“Located in the old Solar do Vinho do Porto, in the cellar of Quinta da Maceirinha’s main building, it’s a magical place with a gorgeous view over the River Douro. Visitors can enjoy great wines selected by sommelier António Lopes and dishes prepared by Chef Vítor Matos [one Michelin star].”

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Casa de Chá Boa Nova

Avenida da Liberdade, 1681, Leça da Palmeira \\\ casadechadaboanova.pt

“Great choice of wines with the expert guidance of sommelier Carlos Monteiro and the creativity of Chef Rui Paula [one Michelin star].”

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Garage Wines

Avenida Menéres, 681, Matosinhos \\\ garagewines.pt

“Wine shop belonging to the very knowledgeable and enthusiastic Ivone Ribeiro, who offers good and often surprising advice.” Located in Matosinhos.

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O Paparico

Rua de Costa Cabral, 2343 \\\ opaparico.com

“A Porto classic with a combination of welcoming atmosphere, traditional gastronomy and a great selection of wines.” One of the Wine Spectator team’s favourite places in Porto.

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Tio Pepe

Rua Engenheiro Ferreira Dias, 51 \\\ garrafeiratiopepe.pt

“This 25-year-old wine shop, where you can benefit from the experience of the Cândido da Silva family, is an excellent place with a wide selection of port and mostly Portuguese table wines, and top service.”

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Augusto da Foz

Rua do Passeio Alegre, 924 \\\ augustofoz.com

“One of Porto’s most traditional wine shops, founded by Alberto Augusto Leite and open in Foz since 1954, offering an excellent selection and a knowledgeable and dedicated team.”

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Wine Quay Bar

Muro dos Bacalhoeiros, 111-112 \\\ winequaybar.com

“Owned by the friendly couple, Filipa and Moisés, and located on the beautiful Muro dos Bacalhoeiros, in the iconic Ribeira area. Worth visiting for its great wine selection, atmosphere and view over the River Douro.”

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O Gaveto

Rua Roberto Ivens, 826, Matosinhos \\\ ogaveto.com

“Excellent seafood restaurant in Matosinhos, where the great food is paired with the team’s top wine service and friendliness. Try the wines made specially for the restaurant: Gaveto verde (Anselmo Mendes), white and red Douro Niepoort and Douro rosé.

 

10 DISHES/// by José Augusto Moreira

Traditional gastronomy is an integral part of Porto people’s character, enhanced in recent years with new restaurants, chefs and trends. A food critic offers us a perfect menu!

Pombo Royal

Pedro Lemos \\\ Rua Padre Luís Cabral, 974 \\\ pedrolemos.net

“An excellent dish that combines the ingenuity of Pedro Lemos’ Michelin-starred cuisine with near-forgotten culinary tradition. Lightly cooked, leaving the meat succulent with a velvety texture, and a perfect truffle jus served with foie, celery purée and mini vegetables from his garden.”

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Roasted veal

A Cozinha do Manel \\\ Rua do Heroísmo, 215 \\\ facebook.com/cozinhadomanel

“Nowadays, there are few places like this, with two wood-burning ovens and a rustic, almost artisanal style kitchen. The roasted veal served with oven-baked rice is one of those exciting dishes, with the soft meats anointed with their own fat. The kid comes from the mountain, so has to be ordered two days in advance.”

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Cod fish à Gomes de Sá

Vinhas d’Alho \\\ Muro dos Bacalhoeiros, 139 \\\ vinhasdalho.com

“As a Porto dish, what better than enjoying it overlooking the Douro and next door to the house where the creator of the recipe was born. Even when served in a modern atmosphere, the original recipe is respected, with the cod flakes wrapped in good olive oil, potatoes, onions, eggs and olives.”

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Tripe à moda do Porto

O Rápido \\\ Rua da Madeira, 194

“Naturally! The Porto dish par excellence and a symbol of its people’s identity and pride. It might scare you a little initially, but then you’ll be smitten. Generally, it’s served on Thursdays everywhere, and even in simple cafés and restaurant it’s possible to find good tripe. One of the most popular is served at the Rápido restaurant.”

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Walewska sole

Portucale \\\ Rua da Alegria, 598 \\\ miradouro-portucale.com

“Cuisine that takes us back in time, to the glamour of French haute cuisine of the 1960s and the luxury of the time, which remains almost untouched. Portucale also offers the same style and recipes, with dishes such as Walewska sole, which is poached in champagne and is served with lobster.”

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Kid rice and roasted leg of lamb

DOP Rui Paula \\\ Largo de São Domingos, 18 \\\ ruipaula.pt

“All cooked slowly in the oven, with the fat of the leg of lamb dripping over the rice with the offal. Alongside cornmeal dishes from the Trás-os-Montes, this is one of the dishes that best represents Chef Rui Paula’s food, with recipes that he inherited from his Douro-born grandmother, now interpreted with a modern approach and presentation.”

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Cod gratin with onion crème

Cafeína \\\ Rua do Padrão, 100 \\\ cafeina.pt

“A Cafeína classic, which became well-known after a visit from former Brazilian President, Dilma Rousseff, who ignored protocol and ‘escaped’ from the airport to try this dish. Roasted cod loin gratinated with aioli sauce, served with migas greens and a roasted onion crème.”

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Lobster rice

Rua Roberto Ivens, 826, Matosinhos \\\ ogaveto.com

“A visit to Porto is never complete without eating seafood in Matosinhos. In addition to the wide variety of fresh shellfish, Gaveto also serves excellent lobster rice. Soupy and engaging, fresh with the delicate texture of shellfish mixed with rice broth and the unique flavour of the carolino variety.”

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Jesuítas

Casa Moura \\\ Rua Rodrigues Sampaio, 115 \\\ confeitariamoura.pt

“Once tried, never forgotten. The puff pastry and icing sugar delights from the well-known Santo Tirso patisserie are now also made in Porto’s city centre. Well paired with a good tawny port or aromatic tea, but, for me, the perfect company is a Loureiro vinho verde (not too cold: between 10º C and 12º C). Give it a go!”

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Neveiros ice cream

Gelataria Neveiros \\\ Rua da Alegria, 930 \\\ facebook.com/geladosneveiros

“The first shop of its kind in Porto, founded in the 1950s, the ice cream continues to be handmade with fresh fruit. The flavours vary every day (there are over 60), but there’s one that’s cream with raspberry jam and crushed biscuit that always tempts me.”

 

10 FASHION ICONS /// by Manuel Serrão

Northern Portugal is the heart of the country’s textile industry. While still embracing tradition, new designers are taking Portuguese fashion and national textiles around the world. This important entrepreneur and promoter highlight the essentials.


Portugal Fashion

portugalfashion.com

Portugal Fashion is “the largest, most comprehensive and most international event promoting Portuguese fashion”. With the event staking its claim at the fashion weeks in Paris, New York, São Paulo, Milan and London, it was possible to “convince the demanding fashion press to see Porto as the capital of Portuguese fashion.” The next edition takes place between October 19th and 21st, with a pre-opening in Lisbon on the 14th.

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Katty Xiomara

Rua da Boavista, 795 \\\ kattyxiomara.com

“Without ever losing sight of creativity, Katty Xiomara was one of the first to realise that fashion is a business”, says Serrão. Her studio is found in a large 19th-century house, which is worth visiting in itself. Inside, you can find clothing by the Portuguese-Venezuelan designer that sells throughout the world, from Japan and China to the USA, Mexico and Europe.

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Luís Buchinho

Rua José Falcão, 122 \\\ luisbuchinho.pt

After moving from Setúbal to Porto to study, Buchinho stayed. “For 25 years, he has built a solid career, blending his creativity with the commercial demands of the brands he works for.” He is a regular on the Paris, Lisbon and Porto catwalks.

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Daily Day

Avenida dos Aliados, 263 \\\ facebook.com/dailydayporto

“A clothing company that presents collections at Magic Las Vegas in New York and Who’s Next in Paris. And one of the iconic shops of the new movida of Porto city centre.” Daily Day has three of its own brands, but also makes clothes for other, mainly Portuguese brands. On Saturdays, it hosts exhibitions, concerts and poetry.

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Marques Soares

Rua das Carmelitas, 80-104 \\\ marquessoares.pt

Around for almost 60 years, Marques Soares “has been to fashion what its neighbour Livraria Lello has been to books.” The brand “has managed to combine traditions with new fashion trends”, to the point that “it’s one of the brightest stars of Porto Fashion Week’s Night Out.”

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Best Models

bestmodelsagency.com

The only Portuguese model agency based in Porto, founded and directed by Alexandra Macedo. “When it started, it had names like Sofia Aparicio, Evelina Pereira, Vera Deus, Rute Marques, Luísa Beirão and João Pedro on its books. Best has many top international models on stand-by.” It represents, among others, Carla Sofia, who has appeared on the cover of UP.

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Francisca Perez

bestmodelsagency.com

Aged 22, model Francisca has taken the fashion world by storm. Her portfolio boasts work in Portugal and at the Paris and Milan fashion weeks. “2017 saw her become established after emerging in 2016. One of the most beautiful models from Porto ever, she’s already a icon of Portuguese fashion.”

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Parfois

parfois.com

“Fashion also means accessories and Parfois buys everywhere and sells everywhere from Portugal’s northern capital. Manuela Medeiros is one of the most important entrepreneurs in Porto.” The brand was founded in 1994 and is present in 50 countries.

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Farfetch

farfetch.com

Blending fashion and technology, it’s the only Portuguese unicorn (tech-speak for companies valued at over one billion dollars). “Split between Porto and the rest of the world, London-based founder José Neves created one of the most globalised Portuguese companies in the textile sector for the luxury market.”

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Modatex + ESAD

modatex.pt \\\ esad.pt

Designers such as Luís Buchinho, Katty Xiomara, Nuno Gama, Nuno Baltazar, Anabela Baldaque and Maria Gambina studied at Modatex (formerly Citex and part of ESAD), which is a benchmark in the teaching of fashion and design in Porto. “Two schools, two styles, two key institutions in training Portuguese professionals. Almost all the big names in Portuguese fashion have a connection.”

 

10 ARCHITECTURAL ICONS  /// by Marta Vilarinho de Freitas

“Talking about architecture in Porto means centuries of history,” says the illustrator, who observes the city with a sharp eye – as demonstrated by her drawings on these pages. Porto “is a sublime meeting between the river and the buildings, between light and shadow.”

Ponte D. Luís

“One of Porto’s most important and well-known icons. Built out of metal with a wonderfully designed arch, it joins the two banks of the River Douro, replacing the Ponte Pênsil Bridge. Its unique beauty and the way it blends with the surrounding buildings makes it one of the most beautiful symbols of Porto!”

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Cubo da Ribeira

Praça da Ribeira

“This bronze sculpture by José Rodrigues is an important landmark and meeting point in the city. The Cubo (cube), which rests on one of vertices, is located in the middle of the historic Praça da Ribeira.”

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Sé do Porto (Porto Cathedral)

Terreiro da Sé \\\ diocese-porto.pt

“Built in the higher part of Porto and a key aspect of how the city developed, it’s one of the oldest and most important of its monuments (construction began in the 12th century). The façade, which boasts two towers and a beautiful rose window, stands out from the surrounding buildings with Romanesque, Gothic and Baroque details.”

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Casa dos 24

Terreiro da Sé

“Next to the Sé Cathedral, Casa dos 24 dates back to the 15th century, when it was home to the municipal council. Rebuilt according to architect Fernando Távora’s modern take on its architecture, its spatial concept and primitive design have been revived, boldly overlooking the city.”

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Torre dos Clérigos

Rua de São Filipe de Nery

“A unique monument, a calling card, a must-see, the tower stands out amongst the buildings, dominating Porto’s entire urban skyline. Inspired by Baroque style and made from granite, it was designed by the Italian Nicolau Nasoni in the second half of the 18th century. The panoramic view is stunning!”

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Bolhão Market

Rua Formosa, 214

“Categorised as a Building of Public Interest, it’s Porto’s most traditional and representative market. An elongated rectangle and designed as a city market, it’s monumental style takes in two lively floors that are a wonderful mix of colours, sounds and senses.”

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Livraria Lello

Rua das Carmelitas 144 \\\ livrarialello.pt

“Considered one of the world’s most beautiful bookshops, its neo-Gothic façade with art nouveau details is one of the city’s most iconic, because of its historical and artistic value. The interior boasts a remarkable red staircase, intricate ceilings and a magnificent stained-glass skylight.”

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Museu de Serralves

Rua D. João de Castro, 210 \\\ serralves.pt

“Designed by Siza Vieira, this cultural centre boasts an international reputation and is one of the most impressive works of contemporary architecture, offering harmony between exterior and interior. Its bright, white longitudinal profile includes several exhibition halls inside, combining scale, proportion and light.”

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Coliseu do Porto

Rua de Passos Manuel, 137 \\\ coliseu.pt

“The city’s most charismatic venue. A Modernist construction that opened in 1941, its quality can be seen in the spatial dynamics of the horseshoe-shaped interior and the asymmetrical facade. Designed by various people, including the architect Cassiano Branco.”

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Casa da Música

Avenida da Boavista, 604-610 \\\ casadamusica.com

“Designed by the Dutch architect Rem Koolhaas and opened in 2005, it’s one of the city’s key examples of contemporary architecture. Imposing and solid, with exposed concrete, jutting and fluid angles and surprising protagonism, it’s an important place for arts and culture.”

 

10 GREEN SPACES /// by Teresa Andresen

Behind every one of Porto’s parks and gardens, there are memories and, most of all, people. A landscape architect shows us the most iconic, highlighting the names of Porto folk that wandered each of its avenues.

Porto Botanical garden

Rua do Campo Alegre, 1191 \\\ jardimbotanico.up.pt

“A historic recreational farm in a wonderful location. Literature and botany, side by side. Home to camellias.” The place recalls the writers Sophia de Mello Breyner Andresen and Ruben A. The main house, where they played as children, features in many of the stories they wrote.

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Parque de Serralves

Rua D. João de Castro, 210 \\\ serralves.pt

“Porto’s last recreational farm.” The avenue of liquidambars “recalls the nave of the Alcobaça monastery.” Carlos Alberto Cabral commissioned the work, including the art deco mansion, and the architect José Marques da Silva was responsible for implementing Charles Siclis’ original project. Work by the architect and town planner, Jacques Gréber, can be found in the garden

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Parque da Cidade

Estrada Interior da Circunvalação, 15443

Portugal’s largest urban park (80 hectares) is situated on the “Aldoar riverbed, ending in a marsh”. Between Avenida da Boavista and the seafront, “recalling the farm workers of Nevogilde and Aldoar: Vinte Libras, Alexandre …”, as well as professor Antão de Almeida Garrett (1896-1978), “perhaps the first person to think of putting a park here: the Parque Ocidental…”.

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Passeio Alegre

Rua do Passeio Alegre

This garden is located “in Foz, where the River Douro and Atlantic meet”. It covers an area of 41,000 m2 and is essentially romantic, boasting a set of architectural features – like the two Nasoni obelisks, from Quinta da Prelada – with an impressively lush grove. Highlights include the Canaries Palm Grove, which is classified as of public interest.

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Engenheiro António de Almeida Foundation

Rua Tenente Valadim, 231-325 \\\ feaa.pt

A rare example of the early-20th century. Designed by Jacinto de Matos, an important Portuguese landscape gardener of the time, it’s a “modern garden which recalls the work of Olga Andresen de Almeida”, wife of António de Almeida and a key figure in the life of Porto.

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Quinta de Vilar d’Allen

Rua do Freixo, 194 \\\ villardallenwines.com

One of the best-preserved examples of Porto’s recreational farms from the 18th and 19th centuries. “It has been inhabited for generations and is still occupied by the descendants” of the British gentlemen, John and Alfred Allen. It has a French garden, the parterre gardenesque, designed by John, and Alfred’s romantic gardens.

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Palácio de Cristal

Rua de D. Manuel II

Designed by the German, Emil David, in the 19th century, the Palácio de Cristal gardens were “Porto’s Central Park.” The place is proof of “Portuguese daring”. The Jardim Emil David remains from the original project, with rhododendrons, camellias, araucarias, ginkgos and beeches, as do the Avenidas das Tílias (linden) e dos Plátanos (plantain), the wood and the verandas overlooking the River Douro.

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Quinta da Macieirinha

Rua de Entre-Quintas, 220

Teresa Andresen highlights “the pleasant nature and intimacy of the place”. The gardens, woods and old farmland of the bucolic ambience surrounding the Museu Romântico, an 18th-century building that reconstructs a bourgeois residence of the 19th century, where the exiled king of Sardinia Carlos Alberto and prince of Piemonte lived.

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Jardim da Cordoaria

Stretching out below Torre dos Clérigos, it was subject to major changes in 2001 but “the place and its trees are still impressive.” It’s “a true public square,” around the court, prison, hospital and the university. The garden is open to the city, with a lake and a bandstand. Keep your eyes peeled for the various sculptures that adorn the garden.

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Quinta das Virtudes

Passeio das Virtudes

With a great view over the customs building, River Douro and Gaia on the other bank, Quinta das Virtudes descends the hillside in terraces. It was here, in the 19th century, that José Marques Loureiro expanded the Real Companhia Hortícola-Agrícola Portuense, which came to be considered the largest vegetable garden on the Iberian Peninsula.

 

10 ICONS /// by Pedro Abrunhosa

One of Porto’s great singers and songwriters gathers key words, sounds and images.

A photograph /// Jorge Henriques

jorge-henriques.com

Great photographer from Porto, between the 1940s and 1970s, Jorge Henriques’ work inspired Abrunhosa on the album Momento (2002). The musician wrote: “When choosing Jorge Henriques’ photos to celebrate together this rigour between image and chance, I’m also building bridges between the Porto he depicted so well and the Porto that I sing in my silences.”

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A gem /// Livraria Chaminé da Mota

Rua das Flores, 28

“One of the oldest and best stocked traditional bookshops and antique booksellers in Porto. Lose yourself in the maze of masterpieces, new and old editions filling the ground floor and basement. Three generations of Pedro Chaminé da Mota(s) doing justice to the way Porto learns and spreads knowledge.”

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A poem /// “Porto de Abrigo” /// Jorge Sousa Braga

“This is the city that fate set aside for you. A city of tough people whose greatest extravagance is a vase of geraniums on the window sill of one or two buildings. You had dreamed of a white city further south. This city is not a city it is an addiction.”

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A book /// Porto Revisitado /// Germano Silva

A set of articles by the journalist and city memorialist, Germano Silva, selected by six figures from Porto: Jorge Gabriel, Jorge Nuno Pinto da Costa, Judite de Sousa, Manuel Sobrinho Simões, Sónia Araújo and Pedro Abrunhosa (Porto Editora, 2016).

A song /// “Porto Sentido” /// Rui Veloso

ruiveloso.com.pt

The most iconic and famous song about Porto – “Quem vem e atravessa o rio” (Anyone who comes and crosses the river), says the famous opening verse – sung by the very Portuense Veloso, with lyrics by Carlos T.

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An artist /// Pedro Burmester

oncproducoes.com/musicos/burmester

“A unique pianist, superb performer, a musician who epitomises Porto’s rebelliousness and tenacity, he was the soul and driver of Casa da Música from the very start. Today, Porto, from the skaters outside to those dressed in dinner jackets, makes Casa da Música the new city centre. Don’t miss the recitals and shows in the stunning Sala Suggia.”

::

A temple of sound /// Boom Studios

Via Piaget, 84, Canelas, Gaia \\\ boomstudios.pt

“This is a place where the finest musicians converge and, as a result, where the best music in the country is recorded. Chosen by Ryuchi Sakamoto to record an album for online transmission 24/7, BoomStudios is a cathedral of silence, where pianos enjoy the finest technology. And they make the perfect pair. In the past, I’ve wanted to open a restaurant, a hotel. Nonsense. A musician opens music schools and studios. So, I started this one.”

::

A way /// Flor do Gás

douromarina.com

“This boat trip from Porto to the charming Vila da Afurada carries the memories of many generations. Mine are sailing there, some have run aground, while other float on reminiscence. In 1999, I wrote the song ‘Barco para a Afurada’ aboard this boat, the city’s floating ground. The journey is as short as the emotion it creates is extensive.”

::

A celebration /// São Pedro da Afurada

São João (from 23rd to 24th June) is Porto’s main celebration, but on the other side of the river, São Pedro is commemorated in the Gaia parish of Afurada between 28th and 29th June. A lovely event that is closely associated with fishermen, who parade in their boats.

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A concept /// The thinking city

For Pedro Abrunhosa, this is the most important name with which to define Porto. Cosmopolitan and free, the city has always been host to free ideas, great ideas, and a lively academic and scientific world.

 

10 SECRETS /// by Helder Pacheco

This gentleman knows the city like the back of his hand and shares places he loves and unveils a few mysterious spots.

Rua das Flores

“This is the most beautiful street in Porto and my favourite. A paradigm: it boasts great character and identity, with traces from the 16th to 19th century, showcasing the solid middle class that has always been there, with many shops and trades. Nowadays, it’s a remarkable example of urban renewal.”

::

Bairro Herculano

Rua de Alexandre Herculano

“A distinctly working-class neighbourhood, a small village, miraculously preserved in the heart of the city. It retains a strong sense of community and working identity.”

::

Foz Velha

“A cosmopolitan quarter par excellence, literary and romantic, from Cantareira to Senhora da Luz, from Alto de Vila to Passeio Alegre, with much of its 19th-century spirit preserved in its purest state.”

::

Alfredo Portista

Rua do Cativo, 14

“The city’s most traditional watering hole and veritable museum of Futebol Clube do Porto, everything decked out in the team’s blue and white. It oozes the real atmosphere of old-style taverns.”

::

Clube Fenianos

Rua Clube Fenianos, 29

“The city has three social clubs that represent the ‘three bourgeois classes’: Clube Portuense, the ‘upper’; Ateneu Comercial do Porto, ‘upper-middle’; and the Fenianos, linked to the world of small traders and employees. I highlight the last one, previously well-known for the carnival parade it organised, and reputation in billiards and chess.”

::

Church of Saint James British Cemetery 

Largo da Maternidade Júlio Dinis, 23

“An intimate, enchanting, mysterious place. It was the first one built without a church via special authorisation in the 18th century. It’s also worth mentioning the Cemitério da Lapa, in Largo da Lapa, the most romantic one in the city, where much of Porto’s bourgeois rest.”

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Passeio das Virtudes

“This great feat of engineering offers one of the city’s finest vistas: twilight over the River Douro.”

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Palácio da Bolsa

Rua de Ferreira Borges

“A centre of Porto’s liberal middle-class par excellence. A statement of personality within civil and cultural movements, built to contrast with what the Church was constructing, like someone saying: ‘This is who we are!’. Like a slap in the face!” Inaugurated in the mid-19th century.

::

Igreja da Vitória

Rua de São Bento da Vitória

“During the Porto [1832-1833], when D. Pedro IV’s liberal army fought and defended the city from the absolutist D. Miguel, the Vitória Church was constantly under attack. On the south wall, you can still see the hole made by a cannon ball fired from the other side of the river.”

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Bataria da Vitória

Rua de São Bento da Vitória

“Bataria means bombardment. Now a wonderful viewpoint, this is where the artillery fighting D. Miguel was located. The marks left by the enemy can still be seen on the stone.”

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Estaleiro do Ouro

Rua do Ouro

“Here is where most of the ships involved in the early maritime expansion were built, such as incursions into Ceuta, Tangier and El-Ksar el Kebir. The Estaleiro do Ouro (Golden Shipyard) operated until the late-20th century and you can still see parts of the wood where the ships used to sit. A metal plaque on a bench marks the memory of this place.”

 

by Augusto Freitas de Sousa, Hermínia Saraiva, João Macdonald, Manuel Simões

 

Arquivos

10 key things about “Porto folk”

This writer and die-hard fan of the city – which appears in many of his books –, tells us about the main characteristics of Portuenses.

Like every city worth visiting – and worth living in –, Porto has its own “uniqueness”, its accent, it habits, its own way of driving a car, its iconic figures, its aromas or taboos (which are always important). Even for someone Portuguese, it’s not easy to define the city or the people who live in it.

Legend has it that they are cheerful, spontaneous, parochial, welcoming, affable and laid-back. They enjoy a good joke, especially if it’s about Lisbon (that city further down the map). They like festas and rarely substitute the word for party. They like to eat and share food. They face problems head on.

Well, legend has it – although only among Portuenses, and said quietly, as if it were a secret among people of the same family – that they can the complete opposite of this.

1

First things first: Portuenses are really good. In other words, they’re the best. At almost everything. For example, Eiffel’s best work is in Porto (there’s that tower in Paris, yes, a good attempt). Portuenses are so good and so “the best” that they appreciate many things from elsewhere – and appropriate them – because distraction meant they appeared elsewhere.

2

A talk very loudly. This is sometimes true, but it’s no sign of rudeness or lack of sophistication. Quite the opposite: Portuenses not only think that visitors are hard of hearing, but also like to remind people that they aren’t afraid to say what they think. Some overdo it – simple excess of friendliness and cordiality. Some say there’s a Porto accent (essentially, it’s a very musical way of speaking Portuguese), which also includes a wide variety of useful swearwords. Don’t try to copy it. Be careful.

3

They’re proud of their city. Undoubtedly. Portugal was born here. São João (Baptista) was born here (Didn’t you know?) and, every year, the city celebrates this for a lively day and night (23rd to 24th June) for the country’s biggest and best celebration – all the other summer solstice festivities are inspired by São João do Porto, and almost every other saint. It’s also worth saying that, in Porto, they’re not just saints – they’re also rascals. Like folk from Porto.

4

They’re cheerful. An idea that is as fine as it is true. Portuenses invent jokes and justifications for everything. If everything makes you laugh, even better. They don’t like self-important, conceited people (of course, there are self-important, conceited Portuenses, but they’re not from here). Being cheerful is not being silly-cheerful. Because there is no sadness more genuine that that of Porto; if sadness is genuine, then it is really the saddest (but not overdone: they don’t write songs about it, nor do they call it fado). Nobody outdoes the Portuenses, as you know.

5

A cent is a cent. Portuenses are well-known for being frugal – but not mean. Every shilling is a shilling, even if shillings haven’t been legal currency for decades. Portuenses earn their living, they value saving and, sometimes (in jokes, for example), even ostentation. To go Dutch in Portuguese is “Contas à moda do Porto”.

6

There are other places you can eat well. The francesinhas. The costela mendinha. The rice – rice in a number of ways (white, bean malandrinho, tomato malandrinho, rice with chickpea, greens, veal, octopus, sardines, chicken, carrot, cabbage and rice). Kid. Avintes cornbread. Cod fishcakes. Cod fritters. Pork shank sandwiches from Casa Guedes. Oven roasted veal. Fish rissoles. Fried sardines. Cod à Gomes de Sá. Punheta de bacalhau. Breaded octopus and hake. Aletria (vermicelli) and rice pudding. Of course, there are other places – in Portugal and even outside the country, oddly enough – where you can eat well; but tell me a place, any, go on. Portuenses are unbeatable.

7

They’re trustworthy people. Which is why they’re suspicious. Portuenses know better than anyone what people are like (basically, people started here), so, they trust them, but not too much. They know that a certain degree scepticism has its own charm.

8

They’re spontaneous. This is a myth put about by folk that don’t understand that Portuenses like people to believe they’re spontaneous. What they are is natural, straightforward, frank, and don’t waste time with niceties. “Do you like it?” “I like it.” “So.”

9

And Lisbon? All cities dislike other cities. Obviously, there are great rivalries: Madrid and Barcelona, Rio and São Paulo, Athens and Sparta, the list is long. It’s a myth that Portuenses don’t like Lisbon, that they like to tell jokes about Lisbon and Lisboners, that the best place in Lisbon is the one with the sign that says “Porto: 299 km”, or that – finally – there’s rivalry between Porto and Lisbon. Untrue. Absolutely untrue. Firstly, because Porto has no rival. And another thing: there is a Praça de Lisboa in the heart of Porto; everyone knows that Lisbon is called Lisboa because of the Porto square – otherwise it would have another, much less pleasant name.

10

They’re old-fashioned. They value old things, they appreciate the contemporary (but joke about it). Portugal was born here. The most beautiful river in the world, the Douro, reaches the sea here. The best wine in the world is stored here – like a jewel. No cause for complaint.

 



Francisco José Viegas

He was born in Pocinho, Vila Nova de Foz Côa, in 1962. He is a publisher (Quetzal Editores): poetry, travel literature and ten novels – including O Colecionador de Erva and Longe de Manaus, two of the crime novels featuring the character Jaime Ramos, a detective working in Porto. He has worked in several television programmes, including Um Café no Majestic, recorded in one of the most beautiful of Porto’s establishments. He’s addicted to travel.

 

10 works of art /// Suzanne Cotter



Born in Melbourne, Australia, before joining the Museu de Arte Contemporânea de Serralves in 2013, she lived in Paris, London and New York. She was curator for the Solomon R. Guggenheim Foundation’s Abu Dhabi Project; senior curator and associate director of Modern Art Oxford, and for exhibitions at the Hayward Gallery, Whitechapel Gallery and Serpentine Gallery, all in London. She has edited and contributed to numerous important arts publications and journals.

 

10 music spots /// Manuela Azevedo



As a member of Clã, alongside musicians Fernando Gonçalves, Hélder Gonçalves, Miguel Ferreira, Pedro Biscaia and Pedro Rito, Manuela is one of the most distinct and recognisable voices of Portuguese pop-rock. Clã formed in Porto in 1992 and have seven albums of original songs. Manuela has also participated in the Humanos project, which pays tribute to singer/songwriter António Variações, and has a strong connection to the theatre.

cla.pt

 

10 wine spots /// Sandra Tavares da Silva



The 98 points Wine Spectator gave to Pintas 2011 serve as her calling card around the world. Produced by Wine & Soul, which was founded by Sandra Tavares da Silva and her husband, Jorge Serôdio Borges in 2001 in Pinhão, Douro, this is just one of many successes. Sandra started on the catwalks of Milan, Paris, London and New York, but an agronomy degree and a Master’s in winemaking dictated her future.

wineandsoul.com

 

10 dishes /// José Augusto Moreira



His roots are in the Entre Douro e Minho region, where he has remained. He was born and continues to live in Vila Nova de Famalicão. In 1989, he was part of the team that founded the Público newspaper, which he still writes for (columns, food and wine for the Fugas supplement). He’s one of Portugal’s most renowned gastronomes.

 

10 fashion icons /// Manuel Serrão



A keen fan of Futebol Clube do Porto, he considers himself as the “oldest market trader of Portuguese fashion.” He has organised fairs promoting Portuguese fashion and textiles since the late 1980s and helped Portuguese companies showcase their work on the biggest stages of world fashion. He has been heavily involved in Portugal Fashion, the largest and most comprehensive event of its kind in the country. Born in Porto in 1959, he gained a law degree in Lisbon, but spent his career first as a journalist and then in management. He says that “being from Porto is a worthy cause.”

 

10 architectural icons /// Marta Vilarinho de Freitas



It was her love of architectural design (she’s a qualified architect) that encouraged her to undertake the project As Cidades e a Memória – a Arquitetura e a Cidade (Cities and Memory - Architecture and the City), which comprises various intricate illustrations. The theme is related to impressive and surprising urban areas, where stories overlap and life is celebrated. Porto has always had a special place in her drawings. The method she uses (pen on paper), with very fine lines, captures the smallest details.

facebook.com/martavilarinhodefreitas

 

10 green spaces /// Teresa Andresen



Landscape architect and agronomist, she was in charge of Porto’s Botanical Garden and held various positions managing the Parque da Fundação Serralves. A member of the Conselho Nacional do Ambiente e Desenvolvimento Sustentável (National Environment and Sustainable Development Council), she is Portugal’s representative on UNESCO’s World Heritage Permanent Commission. She was responsible for the Demarcated Region of the Douro’s application for World Heritage, which was a project of the University of Trás-os-Montes. Between 1996 and 1998, she was president of the Instituto da Conservação da Natureza (Institute of Nature Conservation).

 

10 icons /// Pedro Abrunhosa



From Viagens, in 1994, a revolutionary Portuguese pop record, to Contramão, in 2013, a total of seven albums (more will come, undoubtedly) have been created by this singer and songwriter, who has carved his own niche on the Portuguese music scene. A skilful lyricist and genuine bard of Porto, Abrunhosa is also a staunch defender of civic values in both the city and country.

abrunhosa.com

 

10 secrets /// Helder Pacheco



An important historian and memorialist, his extensive work has covered almost every detail of the city over the centuries, a rigorous and painstaking man, he is a guardian of Porto’s history and identity. He has also made an invaluable contribution to the historic centre’s urban renewal. His most recent book: Porto – Adegas, Tabernas e Casas de Pasto – Os bons velhos lugares do convívio do povo (Edições Afrontamento, 2016).

helderpacheco.wordpress.com

 

 

 

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