Olissippo Lapa Palace, Lisbon
More than five stars, Lapa Palace offers a constellation of good reasons to stay there. The opulence, gardens, art of hospitality and stunning view over Lisbon are from another galaxy.
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Legend has it that the Greek hero Ulysses founded Lisbon and that here he fell head over heels in love with the serpent goddess Ophiussa. The story tells us that, seeing herself abandoned when the Homeric hero returned to his homeland, the enraged Ophiussa made the Tagus plain shake so much it formed the seven hills of Olissipo, today Lisbon. The reference to the seven hills spread among 16th and 17th-century authors, including Frei Nicolau de Oliveira, who describes them as home to some of Lisbon’s most important monuments, like São Jorge castle, the Igreja das Chagas and the São Vicente de Fora monastery. However, from then to now, the city has grown and occupied new hills where new temples have sprung up. One of them is Lapa Palace, where people come to worship hedonism.
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Built in 1870 by the Viscount of Porto Covo, it was later owned by the Count of Valenças who, in 1883, transformed it into a veritable palace decorated by some of the greatest artists of the time, like the brothers Rafael and Columbano Bordalo Pinheiro, who created the frescos and arabesques in various rooms in the building. The count’s heirs only sever their ties to the palace in 1992, passing it onto the Simões de Almeida family, who turned it into one of the finest hotels in Europe.
La crème de la crème
A man in tails and a top hat opens the door of the car and says: “Good evening, welcome to Lapa Palace”. From then on, as if by magic, we leave the outside world behind. In the hall, we can hear piano chords of the Lisbon fado “A Tendinha”. If you follow the music, you find yourself in a bar that is reminiscent of the literary gatherings of the early 20th century.
A calling card for the best of Portugal past and present, Lapa Palace could quite easily be a hotel museum. The “museum’s” collection has some important pieces. In the original wing, that of the palace (there are two new ones, Jardim and Villa Lapa), the classic touches are splendid. The rooms and suites are decorated in various styles from different eras: art deco, colonial, Algarve and neo-classical. In every one, the furniture was recreated by master carpenters from Paços de Ferreira, imitating the original pieces that included styles like D. João V, D. Maria I and D. José.
It’s difficult not to feel a true dandy when surrounded by such opulence and being spoilt throughout the stay; like the bottle of port offered as a welcome gift. If you are lucky enough to stay in the Condes de Valenças suite, do yourself a favour and enjoy breakfast in the tower, with Lisbon and The Tagus in the background, so lovely a landscape it seems like a mirage.
When it comes to gastronomy, the Palace offers the services of Chef António Pimenta. The menu of the Lapa restaurant is a hymn to Mediterranean cuisine. Here’s a recommendation: start with the Lapa carpaccio, then the herb risotto with grapefruit and lobster and then fish and seafood grill. Leave some room for a duo de chocolates or an irresistible crème brûlée with passion-fruit ice-cream. You can feast on the terrace of the Lapa or in the Le Pavillion restaurant, which is located in the lovely tropical garden, where the outdoor pool is situated, whose tepid water are rather tempting in the summer season. The spa is really luxurious and includes treatments and massages, with a gym, indoor pool, sauna and Turkish bath.
Rua do Pau da Bandeira, 4
+351 21 394 9494
€370 – €2600
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by Maria Ana Ventura
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