Leonel de Jesus – 24 Hours in Lisbon
We’re on a tour of the old parts of Lisbon, which are undergoing constant modernisation. Our guide, Leonel Jesus (mentor of the Vespa Gang, Portugal’s only Mod club), takes us to his favourite spots in the capital. This is eternal Lisbon.
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Leonel, also known as o Rapaz do Chapéu (the boy with the hat), is a journalist and poet, and sees himself as a cultural agitator. At the end of the 90s he got fed up of photography and took up written journalism. Currently he contributes to Umbigo, an art and culture magazine, and has done art criticism for Time Out Lisboa. He wishes Lisbon had more 19th Century-type dandies and is all for the restoration of the capital’s dilapidated buildings. Leonel is the mentor of the only Portuguese Mod club (an abbreviation of modernism, and a very popular subculture in London at the beginning of the ‘60s). He is working on the final preparations for the soon to be inaugurated Portugal Modernista venue, in Lisbon’s Bairro da Graça, as well as a biography of the fine artist, Miguel Palma.
By Manuel Simões
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Waking up in a pop dream
“I start the day with a walk in the jardim de Santa Clara and stop at Clara Clara, an innovative kiosk, which has been done up in good taste and boasts unusual views of Lisbon. If it’s Tuesday or Saturday, I head for the hustle and bustle of the famous Feira da Ladra (Thieves’ Fair). Another highlight is the Santa Clara market, which is becoming more and more attractive with the opening of new shops. This is where you’ll find Amores de Tóquio, with its designer fashion goods and exclusive items connected to childhood, feminine and pop themes.”
Clara Clara
Jardim de Botto Machado, Campo de Santa Clara
Amores de Tóquio
Mercado Municipal de Santa Clara, loja 19
www.amoresdetoquio.blogspot.com
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Full of grace
“When you’re in the vicinity of São Vicente, you just have to walk up the road to get to Graça, a peripheral and simultaneously central neighbourhood, where you’ll encounter traditional Lisbon. I recommend Rua de Nossa Senhora do Monte and a visit to Café do Monte, which has a Parisian feel to it. When you go down the road, you’ll discover the viewpoint with the best view of the city. It’s a peaceful place and you’ll be transfixed by the stunning light which pervades the Portuguese capital.”
Café do Monte
Rua de São Gens, 1
+351 91 630 7653
Miradouro de Nossa Senhora do Monte
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From Lisbon to the convent
“Our trip continues on the number 28 tram to Chiado. We get off near Belas-Artes and walk to the Cantinho das Freiras. It’s a fantastic, canteen-like eatery with a splendid view of the Tejo River. It’s self-service and there’s always a dish of the day. If you want to sit at a table outside (which I recommend) you need to get there early.”
Cantinho das Freiras
Travessa do Ferragial, Chiado
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A modernist garden
“After a morning featuring some classic spots and dazzling views, why not continue in the same vein and visit the emblematic Gulbenkian Museum? A definite highlight is the permanent 20th Century Portuguese modern art collection, in the Centro Azeredo Perdigão. You should also have a look at the design and décor of the lecture halls (by the Portuguese architect Daciano da Costa) and the vintage furniture.”
Fundação Calouste Gulbenkian
Av. de Berna, 45 A
+351 21 782 3000
www.gulbenkian.pt
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Traditions are alive and well
“We’re back in the Baixa, and head for the Bairro Alto. We stop at the kiosk in Praça Luís de Camões for a typical snack. The innovative kiosks designed by Catarina Portas, have a vintage Portuguese feel. The recipes of the cakes and all the other products are classic. A little further down, A Vida Portuguesa is a shop with the same ethos, and it sells emblematic national products.”
Quiosque de Refresco
Praça Luís de Camões
A Vida Portuguesa
Rua Anchieta, 11
+351 21 346 5073
www.avidaportuguesa.com
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Crossing the river
“After walking down Rua do Alecrim and getting to Cais do Sodré station, I catch the cacilheiro (the typical ferry operating between Lisbon and Cacilhas), in order to cross the Tejo River for a twilight view of Lisbon from the south bank. It’s a different and inspiring trip.”
Transtejo
Rua da Cintura do Porto de Lisboa
Terminal Fluvial do Cais do Sodré
+351 21 042 2400
www.transtejo.pt
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Codename required
“Back in the city again, I walk up to Príncipe Real via Rua do Século. Number 178 on this road is another of my favourite haunts. The door to Snob is closed – you need to knock to gain entry. It’s a discrete place, much favoured by journalists and artists. Inside it’s like you’re in another time, in a film scene with journalists and spies, and this creates a feeling of intimacy. I recommend the famous beef” .
Snob
Rua do Século, 178
+351 21 346 3723
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Time machine
“At night I head for Left, which is in Santos, near the river. It’s a modern bar where an eclectic mix of good quality music is played. On the third Saturday of each month, the Europa nightclub in Cais do Sodré hosts the Vespa Gang Mod Club. There’s 60s mod music, as well as more recent music with a vintage party theme to it.”
LEFT
Largo Vitorino Damásio, 3F
+351 21 395 1227
www.myspace.com/leftbar
Europa
Rua Nova do Carvalho, 16 – 20
+351 91 848 9595
www.europabar.pt
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