Coimbra – A Eulogy to Love

We take “Brazil’s eternal golden girl” to Coimbra, “Portugal’s capital of love”. The actress fell in love with the city which, like it says in the song, “is a lesson of dreams and tradition”.

“Wanting to visit Coimbra goes way back. When I was young, I heard a lot about the university and thought of studying there. It was an important reference point, like the Sorbonne in France or Oxford in England”. Regina Duarte got the chance to go via Portuguese-language film festival FESTin, which is held annually in Lisbon. Invited to participate in the 5th edition of the event with the documentary “A Arte de Interpretar – A saga da novela Roque Santeiro” (about the Brazilian channel TVGlobo, which was banned by the military dictatorship in the 1970s), the actress took the opportunity to travel to Coimbra with UP.

Regina is recognised in the streets by the name of her most famous role, Widow Porcina. However, the actress became successful playing romantic heroines in soap operas, earning the tag of “Brazil’s golden girl”. The name stuck because of her slight stature and sweet nature. However, over her 50-year career, which involved theatre and film, she proved her versatility, becoming one of her country’s most loved and respected artists. This affection is shared by her Portuguese audience, from whom she has performed a number of times in the country. “I performed in various cities but not Coimbra. I’m really looking forward to it”.

Drawn particularly to the university’s reputation, recognised by UNESCO as World Heritage, Regina was surprised by another dominant aspect of the city: the legend of the forbidden love between D. Pedro I, heir to the throne of Portugal, and the Galician noblewoman Inês de Castro; in reality, a love affair with an unhappy ending that dates back to 1300. The actress wanted to know all the details of the tragedy at Quinta das Lágrimas, the old hunting reserve of the Portuguese court which served as the backdrop to the medieval lovers’ furtive encounters. Now a fine hotel, the lovely building is decorated with images of these two figures and even the Arcadas da Capela restaurant offers a menu inspired by Pedro and Inês, with wines to match.

During the gourmet dinner prepared by top chef Albano Lourenço for Regina, we enjoy caramelised goat’s cheese with seeds and rocket, duck magret with lime couscous, sautéed vegetables and redcurrant sauce, and spring rolls with creamed pureed greens and strawberry sorbet. Sipping a glass of champagne, we enjoy the romantic ambience of the place. Regina comments of the immortal drama of the love affair. Married for a fourth time, she finds it beautiful and would have liked to have had “a single, lifelong love”. However life gave her others: three children and five grandchildren.

Temple of knowledge

The following morning, we enter the university founded by D. Dinis in 1290 via the Porta Férrea. Experienced guide Catarina Freire leads Regina around the Paço das Escolas, traversing the large courtyard to the Joanina Library, built between 1717 and 1728 under the aegis of D. João V. A European Baroque masterpiece, it’s impressive not only because of the number of books and documents in its collection, but also due to its sumptuous decor.

The place has a slightly sacred feel and is illuminated by stained glass windows to protect its valuable contents. “This is the core of universal knowledge. Here are influences from many different countries, whether on the shelves, in the paintings on the ceiling, in the wooden furniture…” – says Catarina, highlighting details, as she mentions the community of resident bats, which protects the books from moths, “in a symbiotic relationship”.

Amazed, Regina asks permission to touch the books, protected by a mesh. Seated in an old reading room for teachers, she examines the 18th century books. “I could just stay here… I always lose myself in libraries and bookshops”. However, her curiosity leads to the neighbouring S. Miguel Chapel, whose main attraction is the Iberian organ built in 1732, boasts 2,000 tubes and still works. Regina climbs up to the choir balcony and, keen to try out the acoustics, dares her sister Tereza, who is accompanying her and who studied lyrical song, to test her voice, an added bonus for the tourists who were there at the time.

A staff member asks Regina to autograph the book A Hollywood Brasileira, bookmarked at the chapter dedicated to the actress, entitled “Nasceu uma Estrela”. Regina hugs the young woman, who is moved to tears. Tereza says that her sister “is like that, always available for her fans. She has great patience! She chats, takes photos, jokes around…”. Regina explains: “There’s a two-way energy between artist and audience. We have to give back what we’re given”.

In the Sala dos Capelos, which is reserved for important institutional events, the actress wants to know about the ceremony in which the ex-President of Brazilian, Fernando Henrique Cardoso, received an honorary doctorate. Catarina explains the ritual: “As important as the visitors may be, they have to sit below the Dean, who is the highest ranking person here”.

Austerity is momentarily forgotten when we come across cheerful students dressed in traditional garb on the Via Latina. They show Regina the badges for each course, which sets them apart. She loves the traditional dress with black cape. She asks to borrow one and enjoys dancing around the gallery columns, turning and twirling on the shimmering marble floor.

Illustrious guest Regina is welcomed by the university’s Vice-Dean, Luís Menezes, who tells her about the policy of incentives and exchanges between Brazilian and Portuguese students: “The University of Coimbra currently has over two thousand Brazilian students and is still accepting new applications. We want to export our knowledge and uphold tradition”. For a moment, the actress relives her youth: “Who knows? I might just come and do a course here?!”

Time travel

Now 66, Regina remains nimble and dynamic. In the old part of the town, she has no hesitation in walking down the popular “back breaker” (the steep slope where many take a tumble on a night out). On the way, she buys some traditional handicraft. She also stops in a tasca (old-style tavern) and enjoys an aperitif of ginginha (cherry liqueur). She constantly takes pictures with her phone to put on her Instagram page. We have lunch in Fangas, which is a combination of a bar and grocery shop. Seated at the table heaving with tasty dishes, Regina admires the display case before leaving Laden with “souvenirs” for her family and friends.

The itinerary through the historic centre takes us to the Sé Velha cathedral, which dates back to the second half of the 12th century. Regina loves the church’s cloisters, Arab tiles and high altar, carved in Gothic style and decorated with gold from Brazil. Before leaving she proudly signs the honour roll. Next is the iconic Santa Cruz Monastery, built in 1113 by D. Afonso Henriques, the first king of Portugal, who is buried there. This monument, which boasts the status of National Pantheon, has an impressive façade that includes a mix of different architectural styles within.

However, in addition to history and religion, Regina is also looking for cultural landmarks; she wants to see Eça de Queiroz’ house, insisting on posing by its respective plaque. And, on the banks of the Mondego, which runs through the city, she pays tribute to poet Miguel Torga, admiring the sunset.

Museu Nacional Machado de Castro, which reopened in 2013. The Fado ao Centro group (Portuguese guitar, acoustic guitar and voice trio) provide the dinner’s entertainment.

“It’s a great privilege to perform for this lady” – say the artists formed the basis of Coimbra fado. They explain that the Portuguese guitar, like the sitar, was designed to be played outdoors, for romantic serenades.

Infected by their enthusiasm, Regina joins them to sing “the most recited song in Portuguese after ‘Garota de Ipanema’, by Tom Jobim and Vinícius de Moraes”. We’re talking about the classic song “Coimbra”, recorded by Amália Rodrigues and Roberto Carlos, which introduces the city as “a lesson of love and tradition”, where “you learn to say longing”.

Already nostalgic, Regina Duarte takes a morning walk amongst the trees, laques and Neo-Gothic ruins of the magnificent gardens of Quinta das Lágrimas, which are open to the public and sometimes host theatre, music and dance. “I imagined Coimbra as a university town, but it’s much more than that, it’s a journey in time. I made my wish come true, but only in part. I’ll be back to take care of the rest”.

text Moema Silva photos João Carlos