Albufeira – The helmsman

Sand, sea, gourmet food and the benefits of a 5-star spa were all highlights on this weekend spent in Albufeira with Zé Pedro, guitarist from the Portuguese band Xutos & Pontapés. With summer sojourns in the Algarve almost upon us, we enjoy the company of one of the idols of Portuguese music.

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If there ever was an accessible celebrity in Portugal, then it’s the guitarist from Xutos & Pontapés. As we saw time and again in Albufeira, despite being recognised wherever he goes, the musician still loves talking to fans. Zé Pedro was no stranger to the place, having spent holidays in the Algarve since he was a child: “I used to stay with a family at Pensão Sol, in Praia da Rocha, until my grandfather bought some land and built a house on top of the cliff at Praia do Vau”.

When we invited him to spend this weekend with us, Zé Pedro was about to start another tour, having just got back from the Coachella music festival in California. So, he needed a few days relaxation by the sea, which was reason enough to take him to the Hotel Real & Spa Santa Eulália. This lovely resort, which has direct access to the beach and one of the loveliest landscapes in Albufeira, is a real must.

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On the waves with dolphins
Things kick off at the Albufeira Marina. Inspired by the Chutos song “O Homem do Leme” (The Helmsman), Zé Pedro, guitar in hand, climbs aboard a sail boat and looks out over the horizon. “And the will to go comes from the very core of our being…”. The lyrics are quite fitting, as we’re off for an adrenalin-fuelled trip on a Dreamwaves launch. For about 2 hours, we cut rapidly through the waves. We listen to information and interesting facts from our guides (Renato and Fábio): “That’s Cavaco Silva’s holiday home” (current Portuguese president), a bit further on is “Figo’s hotel” (ex-football star Luís Figo). The rock formations are fascinating. One looks like the L’Arc de Triomphe, another is similar to “the Beatles’ Yellow Submarine”. There are also rock faces where Grey Herons mate and where the Peregrine Falcon, the fastest bird in the world, nests.

When we entre the Gruta da Catedral (grotto), Zé Pedro shouts to hear the echo and, almost at the same time, the East wind brings a group of Bottlenose Dolphins towards the coast. The dolphins, which are looking for octopus, swim next to the boat. We whistle to get their attention and we see them playing a few metres away, always in pairs, because it’s the time of the year when they protect their young. For a few brief moments, we’re like children amazed by their acrobatics.

The trip finishes in the largest of the Algarve’s grottoes, underneath the Carvoeiro lighthouse, close to Benagil. We pass the beaches of São Rafael, Coelha, Galé, Armação de Pêra, Marinha and Carvalho, beyond the Pescadores beach, Albufeira’s calling card. Zé Pedro, all windswept with a sunburnt nose and a grin, speaks for everyone: “That was great fun!”

We have lunch on the terrace of the hotel restaurant, which is run by Chef Fernando Fonseca. As well as complimenting the menu – particularly a “cheese mille feuille” starter with soft layers of mushrooms –, Zé Pedro talks about music and travel. In 31 years with Xutos, he’s visited Macau, Brazil, the United States, Spain, France, Belgium, Luxemburg, Switzerland, Cape Verde… I think the best audience is in Toronto, in Canada, where there is an enormous community of Portuguese immigrants. But the biggest crowd he’s ever had, “away from home”, was in Luanda, Angola, at a concert for 30,000 people. “I was born in Lapa, in Lisbon, but because my father was an officer in the military, I always travelled a lot. I spent the first part of my life in Timor and the first city I ever saw, at the age of six, was Hong Kong. I absolutely loved it! Later, when I was 18, I went inter-railing and visited the main European countries. Despite my favourite country being Portugal, there’s still one I hope to discover soon, Greece.”

Musical massage
The afternoon is calm. In the Sea Lounge, Zé Pedro experiences something quite new when he puts himself in the hands of therapist Nuno Martins. Angelina Diegues, head of the spa, talks about aborigine massage, which is induced by the sound of two ancestral instruments, which provides deep and healing relaxation. The didgeridoo, used by Australian aborigines for the last 1,500 years, has a penetrating sound. The kalimba is an African instrument with a sweeter sound that has a lulling effect. Zé Pedro confesses that he felt “half hypnotised”, in a state of near-unconsciousness.

The moon shines brightly in the sky when we stop in the road to admire Paderne Castle, one of the archaeological strongholds in the municipality of Albufeira (12th century), on our way to Sítio do Cerro do Ouro. The Xerém restaurant welcomes us warmly with a surprising menu of flavours and aromas of traditional Algarve gastronomy that boasts the modern touch of Chef Ezequiel Viegas.

The next day’s lunch is quite a different kettle of fish at Clube de Pesca de Albufeira, which is heaving. Despite the looks and waves our guest gets, the other diners give him breathing space to appreciate the meal prepared by Chef José Encarnação. On our way out, all the restaurant staff gathers round to ask for autographs, hugs and kisses. The musician becomes glassy-eyed when a couple of customers, who are fans of the band, tell him that their 11-year-old son is called Zé Pedro in his honour.

Al-Buhera : the sea castle

We scour the old centre of Albufeira, whose architecture is more than a match for the town’s history. It was founded by the Romans and taken by the Arabs in 711, and it was the Moors that gave it the name Al-Buhera, which means “sea castle”. Arches like that of the Travessa da Igreja Velha, chimneys and belvederes, typical Algarve terraces on top of the houses, are all part of the Arab legacy that lives in harmony with Christian symbols. The latter have been predominant since D. Afonso III began the re-conquest of the city in 1249. A good example of this is the lovely Igreja de Sant’Ana (18th century), whose façade is crowned with a set of Baroque volutes.

The urban landscape has changed considerably since the ‘60s, which was when the tourist industry began to expand in the region and Albufeira filled up with hotels, restaurants, shops and bars, becoming an important tourist centre for both the Portuguese and foreigners.

In the late afternoon, we stop in Almancil to try “The Best Chocolate Cake in the World”, which can only be found in the Algarve at Ícon, thanks to the architect Ana Borges de Castro, the woman behind a multi-faceted centre that includes a shop, art galleries, a tea room and a meeting place.

With stomach full, Zé Pedro gets ready to tread the boards of the Teatro Municipal de Faro, which is home to the Orquestra do Algarve. On his way out, another surprise: a special car from the Exquisite fleet, with both chauffeur and champagne, ready to transport him, in true rock star-style, to his next destination: dinner at the ultra-sophisticated Hotel Vila Joya.

This was the only thing that Zé Pedro asked from UP. He was eager to try the cuisine of Austrian Chef Dieter Koschina and very pleased when the host reserved us a table at the celebrated 2-Michelin-star restaurant. Despite his slim build, Zé Pedro is a bit of a gourmand. Over the three hours at the table, he enjoys each and every item with gusto on the tasting menu.

At one point, after being served a dish of sour cream with oysters and imperial caviar (the product of molecular cuisine), Zé Pedro defines the experience as “orgasmic”. And after thanking all the team, he says: “We’re going to ask for a third Michelin star for this restaurant”.

Checking out of the Hotel Santa Eulália is almost painful. Zé Pedro says he’d quite happily stay longer and he’s duly invited back. The Albufeira sea awaits our “helmsman”.

Grande Real Santa Eulália Resort & Hotel SPA
Praia de Santa Eulália, Albufeira
+351 289 598 000
www.hoteisreal.com

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by Moema Silva

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