10 Rhône-Alps Basics
In winter, snow and skiing. In summer, the lakes, spas and lovely strolls. Experience both in the Alps. Start your tour in Lyon and then go to Grenoble. Then it’s time to climb to the summit of Europe: the majestic Mont Blanc. Descend just a little further to the world’s largest ski area – Les 3 Vallées – which is based in Val Thorens, the old continent’s highest resort. Visit the lively Val d’Isère and, when you’re tired, go down to Annecy to enjoy the lake, the city and its canals that recall the glories of Venice. Finally, take a detour to Évian-Les-Bains to recharge your batteries before returning home. Combine all this with the best of French cuisine and … voila! You’ve found the formula for a perfect holiday.
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1 – Get your bearings!
The history of the Alps, which today occupy eight European countries (France, Monaco, Italy, Switzerland, Liechtenstein, Austria, Germany and Slovenia), began in ancient times and summing it up is no easy task. The first human occupation of the region started occurred around the end of the Ice Age and was consolidated during the Bronze Age. Between 6 and 35 BC, the region became part of the Roman Empire. After the hegemony of the Romans, little by little, autonomous duchies and dioceses were founded. Another milestone in the history of the Alps occurred in the 18th century, when the region entered the world of literature and works like Voyages dans les Alps by Horace de Saussure (the man considered the founder of mountaineering) inspired new epics. In 1991, the treaty known as the Alpine Convention was signed, which was an agreement for the protection and sustainable development of the region, in environmental, economic and social terms. The French part of this piece of Europe stretches from Lake Geneva to the Mediterranean and is dominated by the peaks and glaciers that surround Mont Blanc – the highest mountain in Western Europe and a Mecca for mountain climbers the world over. But let’s not talk only of mountains; let’s speak of the sea-like lakes and vine-covered valleys, historical towns and natural parks, such as the Vanoise and Ecrins, where the flora and fauna are worthy of a biology or zoology encyclopaedia. The Rhône-Alps, as this French region is called, is made up of two major provinces: Dauphiné and Savoie. The first was sold to France in 1349, and boasts Grenoble as its capital. The second was an independent duchy with two capitals, one on each side of the mountain chain: Chambéry and Turin. In 1860, the part based around Chambery decided to join France.
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2 – Classy Lyon
Frances second city and the country’s gastronomic capital, Lyon is famous for its food and great Renaissance architecture (classified by UNESCO since 1998), which is the second largest in Europe, after Venice. Dynamic, classic, young, gourmet, cultural, timeless … whew! There is no end of adjectives to describe the city which has both the River Rhône and Saône. The first is a man, and the second a woman, at least that is how they are represented at the base of the statue in the middle of Place Bellecour. On top is the Sun King, Louis XIV. From this square, which is the city’s largest, there are two main commercial roads, the Rue de la Republique and Mercière. Follow either one of them and it will lead you to the Célestins theatre, a beautiful 18th-century concert hall. Close by is the Place des Jacobins, the oldest in Lyon. The centre is occupied by a fountain boasting four facades, each one created by a different artist from a different era: a 16th-century architect, a 17th-century writer, an 18th century sculptor and a painter from the 19th century. Carry on a bit further and you’ll pass through the Terreaux area, where you can see the Bartholdi Fountain (sculpted by the same artist who made the Statue of Liberty), the imposing Opera and the Saint Pierre Palace, which houses the Museum of Fine Arts and various works by the master sculptor Rodin. Then, it’s time to go to the Croix-Rousse hill. Lose yourself in the traboules (passages that connect one street to another, through the courtyards of the houses), lanes and alleys of the old silk workers’ quarter. The artisans’ houses are distinguished by narrow windows and high ceilings to accommodate the looms. The traboules helped transport fabric without them being caught in the rain. This is a good time to visit the Soierie studio and buy a souvenir. The neighbourhood is part of the area classified by UNESCO, as is Vieux-Lyon, where you should visit next. Vieux Lyon is the epitome of the Renaissance, being both picturesque and dynamic. There are plenty of cafés, restaurants and monuments. Choose your own itinerary, but don’t miss the Cathedral of John the Baptist, nor the climb up to the Fourvière Basilica, dedicated to the patron saint of the city. Take the 300 steps that lead to the tower and marvel at the panoramic view of the city. Next door are the ruins of Lugdunum, Roman Lyon. Beyond the peninsula, which lies between two rivers, there is another more contemporary but no less interesting Lyon. Don’t forget that this is the hometown of the Lumière brothers, the duo who invented cinema and who have film festivals and a museum in their honour. Buy a Lyon City Card, which gives you access to transport and some museums.
www.lyon-france.com
www.mba-lyon.fr
www.institut-lumiere.org
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3 – Grenoble
The birthplace of writer Stendhal is the flattest part of France and a curious mixture of old and modern. If the architecture is medieval or classical along the banks of the River Isère, in the new neighbourhoods, there are “eco” blocks, boasting contemporary design and which rely little (or nothing) on polluting energy sources. It’s in one of these neighbourhoods that the Le Magasin contemporary art centre is located and where, until 8th January, the Swiss artist Mai-Thu Perret presents the exhibition The Adding Machine. Of the city’s various museums, one of the finest is the Musée de Grenoble, whose collection ranges from the 13th century to the modern era, with works by Matisse, Gauguin, Chagall, Picasso and Andy Warhol. Until February, you can see the hitherto unseen Gauguin painting entitled Rivière Blanche, which was previously hidden behind another picture, The Portrait of Madeleine Benard. Wander around town and mingle with the dynamic and fun-loving locals. If they’re not running, cycling or skiing, they are enjoying the pavement cafés. Sit in the La Table Ronde café, opposite the old Parliament building, which is the second oldest café in France. Stendhal was one of its regulars. But don’t sit around doing nothing all day, you’ve still got to climb up to the Bastille and see Notre-Dame.
www.grenoble-tourism.com
www.magasin-cnac.org
www.museedegrenoble.fr
www.restaurant-tableronde-grenoble.com
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4– Chamonix
In 1787, a scientist from Geneva named Horace de Saussure climbed Mont Blanc (Western Europe’s highest mountain at 4,810 m) with the help of 18 and without the use of ropes. After him came other fearless folk and it wasn’t long before Chamonix became a centre for climbers. At the time, the village hotels had big telescopes, so that those at the bottom could see the brave ones making their ascent. When a new flag was planted at the summit, they opened a bottle of champagne. Nowadays, Chamonix is a chic resort with a mix of old mountain chalets and modern hotels. And if there are climbers who come from all over the world in an effort to tame the mountain, there are even more skiers and snowboarders who travel to the so-called “world mountaineering and skiing capital” in search of the best slopes in Europe, perhaps inspired by the famous descent of Bond, James Bond, in a scene from the film 007: The World is not Enough. If you’re an experienced skier, head off to Vallée Blanche and then ski the 20 km off the piste until Chamonix. The adventure is well worth the extra 70 euros. If you’re no expert, don’t worry. There’s plenty to keep you busy over the 400 kilometres of slopes in the Mont Blanc area, which includes Chamonix and neighbouring resorts. The 7-day (forfait) lift costs 286 euros for an adult.
www.chamonix.com
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5 – Val Thorens, the highest
We’ve already mentioned it, but it’s worth repeating. If you’re in Val Thorens, you happen to be in the highest resort in Europe. You’re going to sleep, eat, drink and sightsee at 2,300 metres and enjoy the world’s largest skiing area – Les 3 Vallées, which boasts over 600 kilometres of pistes and includes other resorts, such as Les Menuires, Méribel or Courchevel. Skiing on each of the thousands of pistes in the three valleys would take years. Not even Flúvio, one of the instructors at the Êcole du Ski Français (the oldest and best skiing school in the country), who has spent many seasons in Val Tho, has skied them. Perhaps this is another good excuse to return to the resort, which celebrated its 40th birthday in 2011. Others reasons are the quality of snow, the superb location, great infrastructure, après-ski activities for all tastes and budgets (check out Basic 10), fine hotels and excellent spas. And because everybody knows that the mountain gives you an appetite, there are excellent restaurants on and off the piste with fabulous Alpine and fusion cuisine. The nightlife is another attraction, at least for the younger crowd.
www.valthorens.com
www.esf.net
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6 – Val d’Isère, the coolest
It’s one of the loveliest resorts in the world and also one of the liveliest. If it weren’t for the snow, you’d swear you were in Ibiza, it’s so buzzing. Don’t be surprised if you’re greeted by classic jazz played live or electronic music when to go up to the pistes. However, Val d’Isère wasn’t always like this. In the early 20th century, it was a rural place where, in the winter months, the few inhabitants virtually hibernated. After skiing became fashionable, because of its outstanding location, it became a ski resort some time around the 1930s. Only later did Val d’Isère join Tignes to produce Espace Killy, named in honour of the Olympic champion Jean-Claude Killy. The glacier in the Val d’Isère areas and the 3,000-metre plus altitude means you can ski all (or almost all) year round – and there are more than 300 kilometres of pistes for expert and novice alike, as well as parks for snowboarders who like to try out new moves. A 7-day lift pass for Espace Killy costs 258 euros. If you’re not a fan of winter sports, you can stay in the village and go shopping or treat yourself to a spa visit. Check out the Aquasportif, a multi-sport centre where you can climb or enjoy a sauna.
www.valdisere.com
www.centre-aquasportif.com
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7 – Annecy, the Venice of the Alps
It’s common knowledge that the French are prone to overstatement, but they’re not exaggerating when they say the water of Lake Annecy is the purest in Europe. The lake is 14 kilometres long and almost one kilometre wide at its broadest point. In the summer, it hosts people sunbathing on small beaches, boating on pedaloes, wakeboarding, water skiing or exploring the depths of the crystalline waters, which boast temperatures of up to 24°C. In winter, many make Annecy their base for the ski season, as, in addition to the famous resorts of Chamonix, Val Thorens and Val d’Isère (which are about an hour by car), there are other less well-known places close by, such as Sambuy, Semnoz and Aravis. Whoever decides to stay here is rewarded with a holiday that includes both entertainment and culture. They call the city the Venice of the Alps, because of its canals, which lead to the historic centre. There are no gondoliers, but there are swans. The Annecy cultural itinerary starts at the Chateau, whose construction began in the 12th century and which was completed four centuries later, which has a beautiful view over the city’s houses, as well as a museum with ethnographic, contemporary art, archaeological and natural history collections. In the city centre, swing by the Palace de l’Isle, which dates back to the Middle Ages and which, in the past, used to be a prison, a mint and, later, a court. Don’t miss Saint-Pierre Cathedral, a mix of Gothic and Renaissance style, the Notre Dame, an excellent example of neoclassical architecture, and the frescoes in the Saint-Maurice church. Wander the streets and see how tempting the street markets are. If you have a musical ear, stop off at the Paccard museum/factory, where they produce the best, largest and most melodious bells and carillons in the world. Don’t leave without taking a guided cruise on the lake to truly understand the exceptional setting between three great mountains that mark the beginning of the Alps in the south: Mont Veyrier, Dents de Lanfon and La Tournette. Look up and see the thousands of paragliders in the sky. Visit Talloires and linger over the lake, the 1930s chalets and the tranquillity, which are wonderful! One more interesting fact: it was in the 11th century near Annecy, at Château de Menthon, that the saint who gave his name to the dog that saves lives on the mountain was born: St. Bernard.
www.lac-annecy.com
www.musees.agglo-annecy.fr
www.paccard.com
www.talloires.fr
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8 – Special Spas
There are 16 spas in the region. One of the most famous is the Évian-les-Bains, which is located on the shores of Lake Léman and has a Riviera feel. The lake is the second largest in Western Europe, and, if much of its surface wasn’t in Switzerland, it would also be the biggest in France. Évian itself is a small historic city with fine architecture and a plethora of cultural events. It was baptised by Napoleon III, during a visit to the place in 1860, and the spas have been in use since 1823. Other famous figures have also visited, such as the Lumiére brothers, who had their summer residence in Évian. The holiday home is still there for those who wish to see it, but is now occupied by the Town Council. One of the many things you should do in these parts is a boat ride on the lake, where water sports are popular in the warmer weather. Stop by the theatre (1885) and the casino (1911), both Neoclassical works by Hébrard, a disciple of Charles Garnier (the architect who designed the Paris Opera) and don’t forget to drink Evian water (the most famous in the world) from the fountain in the city centre, which is a fine example of Art Nouveau. Still need convincing?
www.ville-evian.fr
www.lesthermesevian.com
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9 – Haute Cuisine
With 66 award-winning chefs at the food Oscars (which means Michelin star holders), the Rhône-Alps region is the crown jewel of French cuisine. Paul Bocuse, Georges Blanc, Laurent Petit, Jean Sulpice (and many other renowned chefs) know that the region’s ingredients are hard to match. The cheeses boast a thousand and one shapes, characters and flavours, the most typical being the Tomme, the Beaufort and Rechoblon. The lake fish, such as the féra and omble chevalier are tasty and very versatile. The meat is tender and the vegetables juicy. Lyon is considered the gastronomic capital of France. Try the bistros and restaurants, but don’t miss out on the most authentic culinary experience: it can be found in the bouchons, the French equivalent to a Portuguese tasca (tavern). The atmosphere is warm and family-friendly. People sit next to strangers at long tables, covered with chequered table cloths. We hear other people’s conversations, drink house wine and eat a lot and very well. Pork (and respective offal) is the main fare on the menu. In the mountains, traditional dishes include raclette, braserade and fondue, preferably eaten with potato gratin. When it comes to drink, Savoie wines are increasingly good, the whites in particular. As for a digestif, nothing better than a génépi (a liqueur made from alpine wormwood plant) or a chartreuse, whose secret recipe was created by monks on the outskirts of Grenoble.
Useful guide:
Lyon
Le Bistrot de Lyon
Kitsch environment with traditional food. Ask for salmon with crozets risotto and a chocolate fondant, which are out of this world.
64, Rue de Mercière \\\ +33 (0)4 78 38 47 47
Le Musée
Authentic Lyon bouchon, which Chef Luc Minaire in the kitchen, a good-natured fellow with many fun stories to tell. We recommend the osso buco.
2, Rue des Forces \\\ +33 (0)4 78 37 71 54
Annecy
Après la Plage
A restaurant with local and organic menu, modern decor and attentive service. Well worth it!
2, Place Saint-Maurice \\\ +33 (0)4 50 51 46 64
Clos des Sens
The Michelin-starred cuisine by Laurent Petit innovates with every day that passes and eating at the Clos des Sens means trying the best of French haute cuisine. Choose the chef’s recommendation and let yourself be surprised.
13, Rue Jean Mermoz \\\ +33 (0)4 50 23 07 90 \\\ www.closdessens.com
Grenoble
Le Bocal
Traditional fare with a bold twist in a relaxed space with extravagant decor. Curious? Give it a whirl.
2, Rue Condorcet \\\ +33 (0)4 76 50 97 57 \\\ www.lebocalgrenoble.blogspot.com
Val d’Isère
La Grande Ours
Old resort restaurant with a terrace that’s ideal for sunny lunches. The beef carpaccio with pesto and parmesan is wonderful
+33 (0)4 79 06 00 19 \\\ www.grande-ourse.com
Le Pré d’Aval
Family-friendly, traditional and good value. They are masters at traditional Alpine dishes, such as fondue savoyarde, braserades and fondue bourguignonne. The gratin dauphinois is particularly delicious.
+33 479 411405
Val Thorens
Oxalys
Jean Sulpice is a chef working at 2,300 metres with a winter menu that includes pigeon with coffee liqueur and pumpkin mash. The restaurant boasts two Michelin stars.
+33 (0)4 79 00 12 00 \\\ www.restaurant-loxalys.fr
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10– A não perder
Don’t think that the Alps is just skiing and snowboarding; nor that it’s just snow and more snow. For the more adventurous souls, and those who prefer to enjoy the mountains when the weather is warm, here are a few suggestions. Climbing Mont Blanc is quite within your grasp. You just have to train your body and mind from the epic journey that lies ahead. Contact Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix (www.chamonix-guides.eu) and prepare to make the ascent safely. Then, focus on the summit and remember every moment, so you can tell your grandchildren. If you don’t fancy the hard work but want to see the highest mountain in Western Europe, take a helicopter ride (www.chamonix-helico.fr). If you’re in Val d’Isère or Val Thorens, why not learn how to drive on ice or venture into a tandem paragliding flight (which is a mixture of paragliding with skiing) over the snowy summits (www.valdisere.com e www.valthorens.com). If you are travelling with children, you can enjoy trips with snow rackets and sleighs. Kids will love being on a sled pulled by huskies. Those not partial to snow, can still visit the resorts, as there is plenty to do in the summer time: trekking, mountain biking, paragliding, climbing and rafting are just a few of the options.
by Maria Ana Ventura
Up would like to thank Atout France – French Tourist Development Agency, the French Tourist Board and Rhône-Alps Tourisme for their support on this trip. Special thanks to Bernadette Quintela and Céline Gomes.
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